Cloud Kitchens: Anushka Malkani and Nariman Abdygapparov, Masa Bakery
Wine & Dine
Textual content and Pictures by Mallika Chandra.
Anushka Malkani, 27 and Nariman Abdygapparov, 24
Masa Bakery
Location: Andheri
Speciality: Baked items, pastries
Inform us about your journey as cooks earlier than Masa. What led you to start out a cloud kitchen and the way had been you intending to face out?
Anushka Malkani (AM): I studied in Switzerland, after which I moved to Paris, the place I used to be working with the Ducasse group. I realized so much concerning the significance of excellent components and the way you supply them. Actually, it impressed Nariman and me to open Masa as a result of we felt like there was an area for ingredient-driven pastry in Mumbai. There are lots of ingredient-driven eating places in Mumbai, the place they concentrate on the standard of the vegatables and fruits. However in relation to cloud kitchens, I believe there’s a notion that the meals is dangerous, it’s unhygienic and typically that’s presumably the reality, proper? We don’t know the place the meals is coming from. So, we needed to set a typical for cloud kitchens, right here in India, based mostly on sourcing good-quality produce and creating an consciousness about the place the meals is coming from. The goal was to alter the notion round cloud kitchens.
Nariman Abdygapparov (NA): I began pursuing pastry once I was 14 years previous, having an curiosity in it from a really early age. I’m initially from Kazakhstan and the mentality there’s much like India, when it comes to mother and father wanting their children to review finance, drugs or engineering. Being a pastry chef is taken into account a really area of interest path. I went to Spain for my culinary training and I spent two years there. I labored in a number of bakeries, by which I used to be looking for my fashion. After which I realised that the perfect place to additional my expertise can be France. So, I pursued a profession there for round 4 years. That’s the place Anushka and I met.
AM: In the course of the lockdown, we began a small web page on Instagram. We had been residing in a 30-square-metre house in Paris with nothing to do, and all we had had been our talent units. We thought, let’s simply present everybody what we are able to do and share recipes throughout this unsure time. We seen that lots of our viewers was from India. They actually appreciated what we had been doing, and communicated that there’s a hole available in the market, which finally led to our resolution to maneuver right here.
And the way was the transfer to India for you, Nariman?
NA: For me, it was a pleasant change. Understanding dietary preferences in India, particularly relating to pastry, together with observing a rising health-conscious motion, opened my thoughts professionally. Even technically, I grew. Many pastry cooks consider that some pastries can’t be made with out egg, for instance, however it’s only a limitation of our minds. I took that on as a inventive problem.
How did you go about establishing your operation? Was juggling the position of a chef and entrepreneur difficult?
AM: Probably the most difficult half in India is time administration. We set deadlines however we discovered that issues both transfer too quick or too gradual. However in any other case, establishing the kitchen has been pretty simple. I come from a household of hoteliers, so I’m privileged to have had that entry to the contacts I wanted in an effort to, say, get gear or supply supplies. It was a lot simpler for me than if I had needed to begin from scratch. This course of additionally allowed us to discover a stability whereas working collectively, and we understood our obligations and strengths individually. While you’re a pair working collectively, and also you’re always in one another’s firm, it’s essential to discover a strategy to not step on one another’s toes as a result of it might have an effect on us negatively each at work and residential.
NA: It was most essential to acknowledge that we’re each cooks and creatives, and that we’d have completely different concepts about the identical matter. Now, I’m principally in command of the every day manufacturing within the kitchen whereas Anushka develops recipes, and acts as that bridge between the manufacturing and the ultimate end result going to the client. Our perception is that if we are able to go away our bakery for per week, and never have that have an effect on our processes and the standard, then we’re good. I’m additionally making an attempt to react to issues extra analytically as a enterprise proprietor, moderately than emotionally. It’s utterly regular for patrons to offer damaging suggestions however it used to set off me as a chef in my early days. Now I’ve shifted my lens and I strive listening to the client with an open thoughts.
Do you discover that youthful cooks like yourselves, are more and more advocating for and prioritising their psychological and emotional stability? Is that one thing you introduced in out of your previous work experiences?
AM: I’d undoubtedly describe the work surroundings in France as very poisonous. We had been working 16 to 18 hours a day. In France, they are saying en kind which signifies that you at all times must be prepared. It’s a navy time period, used throughout wartime. That’s what they used to name us — the primary line of the navy. It was like going right into a battlefield and there was no scope for being weak.
Once we moved again and began hiring folks, we needed to make it possible for our crew members didn’t must really feel prefer it was their responsibility to be overworked. I keep in mind waking up each single day and I used to be wired earlier than even reaching work as a result of I used to be both considering, “I’m going to fail” or {that a} visitor goes to be sad. There’s no scope for error as a result of it was a 3-Michelin-star restaurant. Most of my colleagues had been pushing themselves as a result of they had been passionate from inside however all of them hated their jobs. They began burning out on the age of 25 or 26.
The rationale that we’re cooks and we prepare dinner meals is as a result of we’re pushed solely by ardour. I would like that keenness to remain ignited however I nonetheless wish to create a snug, non-toxic surroundings for the individuals who work with us.
Inform me about establishing your distinct visible aesthetic for the model when it comes to the packaging.
NA: We constructed that distinct fashion and aesthetic over time. We began by referencing huge names within the trade, particularly in France and Spain, and first realized how you can copy nicely by practising, practising, practising.
Most of our inspiration comes from nature and we each gravitate in the direction of that handcrafted really feel. We considered how we needed our clients to really feel after they opened the field of meals and ate it. Each design resolution went in the direction of creating that have. Being a cloud kitchen, we didn’t have an area the place you could possibly scent the pastries, have a cup of espresso, and so forth.
Our field through which the meals is delivered, is nicely ventilated to protect the aroma, crunch and texture. The simplicity of the packaging displays our cooking fashion; we keep away from crowding one dish with too many flavours or methods. Typically, we like a sense of spaciousness. Our packaging, and even the design of our kitchen, displays that. Actually, we’re additionally engaged on documenting our personal inventive course of, as useful resource materials for younger cooks. We expect it might be useful to have a guidebook that may assist others add construction to their inventive processes.
AM: We additionally needed to scale back our carbon footprint the place potential. Typically while you order from cloud kitchens there are a number of luggage and bins that the meals is available in. Our field is the bag — it is so simple as that.
You describe your self as a “bakery of proximity” on Instagram. What are you making an attempt to speak to your buyer there?
AM: “Bakery of proximity” means two issues. One, we attempt to supply every thing from a 500-700-kilometre radius. Secondly, we wish to be the neighbourhood bakery.
How do you goal to construct belief as a cloud kitchen?
AM: Transparency. We wish to present the place the meals is being cooked and the hygiene requirements we keep, the place we’re sourcing our components from whether or not it’s chocolate or flour. Our sources are usually not a secret. We’re fortunate to have the ability to use them. Everyone simply desires honesty right now.
Each of you proceed to keep up a presence in your private Instagram accounts. Has that helped the enterprise?
AM: These accounts are an area for us to specific the methods through which we’re completely different as cooks. We now have completely different types; Masa is a mirrored image of the place we align. We like specializing in our merchandise and giving the client expertise, and making folks completely satisfied. It helps the enterprise once we are in a position to keep true to ourselves as people, and as a crew.
How do you keep related with the meals neighborhood in Mumbai? Is there an area the place you’ll be able to focus on issues along with your friends?
AM: Once we began our meals web page on Instagram, it was for the aim of networking. However by collaborations, a lot of the cooks locally have change into our associates. We discover it simple to get together with one another as a result of we get what the opposite goes by on a day-to-day foundation. Everybody has related points whether or not it involves staffing or sourcing components. We attempt to contribute by being open about our enterprise.
NA: Collaborations additionally expose us to different factors of view and we settle for them. We construct abilities. It helps us get out of our bubble. On a extra critical notice, despair afflicts lots of people from this trade so we actually attempt to join and examine in with our colleagues. It’s essential for the neighborhood to encourage one another to go away our kitchens as nicely.
How do you stability buyer expectations? Do you push again when wanted?
AM: We now have our methods of doing that. Once I instructed my mother and father that I needed to open a bakery and that our focus was going to be on viennoiserie, which is Nariman’s experience, they had been disillusioned that we weren’t going to promote sourdough bread. For us, it was simply including to the litter; there are such a lot of bakeries that provide it. However when the requests didn’t cease, we had the thought to recreate the essence of sourdough by a chocolate bar. We labored with a vendor who modelled a slice of sourdough bread that we baked, and created a mould for chocolate. And as an alternative of placing sourdough inside, we dehydrate croissant trimmings and add it to the gianduja. It ended up being a good way to make use of the waste trimmings that come from making our croissants. You have got that crunchy, candy aspect within the chocolate bar, however it seems to be prefer it’s bread. It’s undoubtedly one among our extra experimental merchandise, and persons are typically pleasantly stunned by it.
NA: Folks get so excited. They are saying we’re the primary ones to promote bread by the slice and I nonetheless discover myself reminding them that it’s not bread.
Are you able to spotlight among the components that you simply use?
AM: India has every thing from vanilla, which we supply from Kerala, to chocolate, which we supply from Andhra Pradesh, to butter. Ninety per cent of the produce that we use in our kitchen is from India. The imported components we use are ones like olive oil, which aren’t actually obtainable right here. Our flour is from Uttar Pradesh. The standard of fruits we’ve labored with could be very spectacular. We work with an organization referred to as Tillage that provides locally-sourced, organically farmed staples, sweeteners and seasonal fruit. Even, for instance, the pastrami in our croissant sandwich is sourced from an artisan in Pune who cuts and smokes the meat himself. I’m so proud of the standard of components we’ve got been in a position to supply from inside the nation.
NA: The important thing ingredient within the kitchen, which we wish to attempt to take as a lot management of, is the flour. We companion with an organization based mostly in Uttar Pradesh referred to as TWF. The founder is a scientist, with in-depth information about flour, wheat construction, and so forth. He calls it multidimensional flour and he has developed a particular mix for us. Every thing is stone floor and natural. Not like different suppliers, who course of their flour historically however can not assure high quality, he’s marrying conventional with a scientific strategy to ship a persistently high-quality product. Not solely that, he’s learning how the identical flour goes to behave in numerous cities. We’re studying so much from him.
How are your merchandise an expression of each your cultures? Is that one thing you attempt to specific by the meals in any respect?
AM: We do carry our cultural backgrounds into the pastries. Just lately, we made a mango rice pudding that was impressed by phirni however we cooked the rice pudding like a French riz au lait and we used an area Maharashtrian rice selection referred to as ambe mohar. It was flavoured with vanilla from Kerala and topped with contemporary Alphonso mango.
Within the Reuben, one among our croissant sandwiches, we use a regionally sourced mustard referred to as kashundi, which is analogous to Dijon, and a pickled cucumber from Kazakhstan. Each the pastrami and cheddar are made in India as nicely.
NA: We lately launched the medovik, which is one thing I grew up consuming. It’s a honey cake with bitter cream. Historically, it’s one thing my grandmother would make, however we’re utilizing flour with a better protein content material in our model and making it much less candy. Basically, once we create such rustic dishes that is likely to be heavy to eat, we do attempt to cater to the health-consciousness of our clients on this approach.
What are you trying ahead to?
AM: We now have simply opened an outlet in Juhu. It’s not a sit-down area. We consider it as a boutique the place folks can come strive the pastries and possibly seize a espresso. Our kitchen stays the identical.
What’s the good order from Masa?
NA: I’m a fan of classical issues accomplished proper. I’d undoubtedly advocate a butter croissant. The confit garlic and cheese croissant is a pleasant savoury choice, and our chocolate chip cookie can also be one among my favourites. I’d say order two or three issues at all times, as a result of it lets you strive them out. Consider it like tapas.
AM: I like the very same issues, however I’d additionally advocate our marble cake as a result of it’s so stunning. It seems to be like a slab of marble. It has a glaze on prime, which is manufactured from white chocolate and milk chocolate, and it’s actually gentle and moist.
